a view of Chilojo Cliffs in Gonarezhou National Park
BY MUNYARADZI BLESSING DOMA
It’s around midday when we arrive at Gonarezhou National Park in Masvingo Province.
I’m privileged to be among a group of about 20 local journalists touring the province’s several tourist attractions ahead of the Sanganai/Hlanganani Dzimbabwe 2026 World Tourism Expo.
Located in the Lowveld, Gonarezhou, loosely translated to mean “the place of elephants”, is Zimbabwe’s second-largest national park.
It stretches over 5 000 square kilometres and is home to two rivers and the spectacular Chilojo Cliffs.
There are more than 400 bird species, about 12 000 elephants and hundreds of other animal species.
Two Toyota Land Cruisers, one green and the other sand beige, are parked outside the boom gate.
We are greeted by two men, who we later get to know are tour guides. They identify themselves as Owen and Forgive Hanyani.
And yes, you guessed it right, they are brothers.
They drive off to the main office and come back with a few jackets, which they gift to some of my colleagues.
Being a safari tour, some of my colleagues had decided to dress in shorts and T-shirts, but the Gonarezhou weather had other plans.
It was cold and drizzling.
Owen addresses us first, as he advises that he shall give us the not-so-pleasant instructions.
He reveals that no matter how small, nothing should ever be taken from the park. He instructs that no noise is permitted so as not to scare the animals.
Owen further advises that we can take as many pictures as possible, but adds that no drone had been cleared to fly the Gonarezhou skies.
The younger brother, Forgive, then reveals that we can only get out of the car under their strict instructions.
He adds that under no circumstances should one ever leave the car when around elephants.
Forgive further advises that elephants sometimes do what is called a false charge or mock charge.
a herd of elephants
A mock charge or false charge, is a warning display where an elephant runs forward to intimidate a perceived threat, but stops before making contact.
The brothers also advise that in the jungle, animals have the right of way.
We are also advised that the tour will be around five hours, and I shudder to think that’s too long, not knowing I would later wish it were more.
After the instructions, Owen advises that one group gets into his car and the other into Forgive’s.
I get to be in Forgive’s sand-beige car and, as we start our tour, I can feel its power.
My mind quickly rushes to videos by Trevor Chagura of the famous “Cruiser mhaani”.
For those who may not know, Chagura is famed for making videos praising the immense power of the Toyota Land Cruiser.
And let me confess, as we drove off, I also say out a subdued “Cruiser mhaani”, and Forgive hears it and just chuckles.
The first animals we see are waterbucks, which are near a watering hole, and Forgive stops his car to explain.
He then gets to show us the famous murumanyama tree, known botanically as Cassia abbreviata.
As we drive off, several theories start flying around in the car, with some colleagues saying the bark and roots are used for medicinal purposes, and Forgive agrees.
We continue with our safari and also get to see impalas, kudus, dwarf mongooses and several bird species.
At the viewpoint, we see the Masasani River, which feeds into the Masasani Dam, where we get to witness hippos moving out of the water onto the land.
The view is simply breathtaking, something you can only see in those wildlife documentaries.
As we continue with the safari, Forgive stops to give us information and poses questions on what we are seeing.
It would be unfair of me not to reveal that Forgive is a good host, as he gets to crack some jokes and why not, when he gets to live and experience Zimbabwe’s second-largest national park every day?
Our tour guide Forgive Hanyani
Along the way, we see very tall trees with what seem like nests, and Forgive stops and tells us that we are witnessing food stalls for giraffes where they keep their food.
We are amazed at this story and, as he sees some of us taking down notes, Forgive bursts into laughter.
He then tells us that these are bird nests and, being the joker and good guide that he is, we quickly forgive Forgive.
We see some elephants high up on the hill and, being in Gonarezhou, witnessing these giant creatures is the hallmark of any tour.
He explains that the very cold weather had driven many of the animals deep into the forest, so we were not in luck.
Forgive drives a bit faster, navigating the high and low terrain of this majestic park.
We see a big baobab tree with a large hole, and we ask Forgive to stop so we can take some pictures and videos.
a baobab tree damaged by an elephant
With a straight face, Forgive tells us that the tree was damaged by a bazooka during the war of liberation.
We are all amazed as we listen to this “fascinating story” and, after taking enough pictures of the damaged baobab, Forgive drives off.
“So you guys just believed the story that a bazooka damaged this tree, aaah guys,” he says while laughing.
He continues: “Remember I told you that elephants have a tendency of destroying these trees, so what you just saw is a hole which was created by a large elephant tusk.”
Again, we laugh, as we all agree that indeed he had fooled us, again.
We see two cars approaching from behind us, and the one following immediately, a brown Ford Ranger with Mpumalanga registration plates, starts flashing its lights.
This car is moving what seems too fast for a safari drive, and we all wonder why.
The driver of the Ford Ranger keeps flashing, and Forgive allows him to pass, but the former has a few words.
“You should allow faster cars to pass, we have a long way ahead of us.”
Forgive just nods in acknowledgement, and he also lets the white Toyota Fortuner pass.
Unlike the occupants of the Ford Ranger, those in the Fortuner are more friendly, as they exchange greetings with us.
We travel for a few minutes before we notice that the Fortuner had developed a right-front tyre puncture.
Most visiting tourists say Zimbabweans are hospitable and true to this, we all agree that we should stop and help the driver and his passenger.
Forgive, Tawanda and Stan lead the tyre replacement efforts, while some of us take time to entertain the tourists.
As we are helping the two stranded tourists, the driver of the Ford Ranger comes back and, unlike the last time when he had seemed unpleasant, he actually thanks us for stopping to help his friends.
He even agrees to be interviewed and pose for some pictures.
They all agree that Gonarezhou is one of the best game reserves in Southern Africa.
After all is set, we continue with our journey and, as we drive for what seems like a long journey, we are all amazed at the sight of the Chilojo Cliffs.
Chilojo Cliffs
Chilojo Cliffs are striking red sandstone cliffs, rising 180 metres and stretching for about 20 kilometres along the Runde River.
As we park, we cannot resist the spectacular sight, as each of us runs for the perfect spot to get a closer glimpse of this beauty.
In the river, some hippos can be seen going about their business.
After taking enough pictures and videos, we are advised that we have to head back because it is getting dark.
On our way back, we meet a large herd of buffaloes and elephants.
And while the buffaloes graze from a distance, it is the elephants which decide to show us that indeed this is their home.
Two elephants from one herd decide to block the road and just look at the two cars and their occupants, and as we had been earlier advised, animals have the right of way.
car stops to give way to elephants
We wait for what seems like forever, before the elephants finally move out of the road.
As we head back, Forgive also stops to show us a huge elephant carcass, telling us how the mammal could have died.
Forgive shows us a huge elephant carcass
We finally get to the boom gate and it is already dark.
We thank our tour guides, the Hanyani brothers, as we head back to Chiredzi.
Along the way, conversations are centred on how Gonarezhou remains one of the country’s hidden tourism gems, offering visitors breathtaking landscapes, rich wildlife and a true sense of wilderness.
It is a destination that leaves you wanting more.
For me, Gonarezhou was more than just a safari.
video of my Gonarezhou National Park experience
It was an experience of nature at its rawest and most beautiful, a place where elephants command the roads, hippos dominate the rivers and the red Chilojo Cliffs leave you mesmerised.
And how grateful I am to the Ministry of Tourism and Hospitality Industry and the Zimbabwe Tourism Authority for affording me the opportunity to experience this great and majestic national park.
